Chasing autumn in Japan

Autumn in my pocket 

I want to travel to Japan.

Lets google

Oh cherry blossom is April-May

But I want to travel in October, its my birthday

Lets google again

Oh lovely, its autumn time

Yay yay yay,

But wait, Japan’s autumn season starts in September, but it takes a good two months before it makes an appearance in places like Tokyo and Kyoto

Damn it!

The above conversation is what yours truly had with her own self. But, autumn has to be seen, experienced, loved and awed about. And when you desire something earnestly, the universe conspires.

My blessing came in the form of Nikko. Nikko, my love. I want to have a daughter, and name her nikko, no I want to have a daughter and name her autumn. Sorry, I digress, but I hope you get my crazy love for this place.

So here is how my Nikko love affair began. My flight tickets and hotel bookings were  done- Tokyo, Mt fuji, Kyoto and back to Tokyo. But there was a small hitch, none of these places experience autumn in October or atleast in the first half. So, I consult travel bloggers- go to nikko they say, but not sure you will find autumn there too, they say. But anyways Nikko is beautiful, they say. It’s a risk, and I shall take it.

With that Tokyo’s three day trip was cut short to two days, and a last minute booking was made for a one night stay in Nikko.  On the third day of my trip, I wake up early morning; take a 6.10 am train from Tokyo’s JR Uneo station towards Nikko. Prayers are being made for some autumn viewing. Please please please. Let me see them.

As I set foot outside the JR Nikko station, it’s a nice rainy day at Nikko, with the air loaded with both- mist and a pleasant chill. Nikko looked beautiful and mesmerizing in that mist. But the leaves were green, no sight of autumn.

I reach my hostel at Nikko well before 9am and ask her for tips to go see the Ryuzu waterfall. According to intense research, that was the best spot to try my luck for autumn viewing. The staff directs me to the tourist desk at Tobu Nikko station for more details.

There I go happily, hoping to experience autumn. The lady at the desk politely informs me, it is a public holiday and we are expecting huge crowds, I suggest you drop plans for the waterfall. Go for the shrine, the lake and other spots. Oh no, why good lord why? She speaks in broken English and has now given up on constant requests to go see the waterfall. She directs me to an old man at another desk who knows English. God bless him with long life, happiness or whatever that he seeks. I was seeking autumn, and he understood it perfectly fine. Leave now, take the bus in the next ten minutes, go to the waterfall first and then cover up for the shrine and the lake later, the old man said. I was happy, elated, he looked like god to me. Finally, I was atleast heading to the waterfalls.

I board the tourist bus, which will take me to the waterfalls in 40 minutes. Thanks to sweet Mother Nature, it did not take me long to guess that I will be blessed today and lucky too. Autumn was mine to see. The rest of the world and my life can wait.

As the bus started ascending and moving up the hills, autumn was revealing its true beauty with a slow-paced grace. Divine things never hurry. 

The autumn hues got brighter as the bus ascended. This was my life’s best bus ride, for most part of which I had my mouth wide open. The sight was beautiful, mesmerizing, spell bounding, dreamy. Imagine a landscape covered with a mix of greens, orange, a few reds and yellows. And now imagine a layer of fog, giving the landscape a dreamy feel.

After a beautiful dream ride of 40 minutes, the moment of truth had arrived. The bus dropped  us mid-road. I asked a fellow traveler, which way to the waterfalls. She directed me to a café, the view point for the waterfall is through the café. I enter, I walk a few steps and there it was greeting me with all its beauty. Two streams of pristine white waterfall flowing amid, autumn leaves. 

It could be any artist dream painting, a photographer's best click, but for the lesser mortal me- it was pure high. If I was granted a wish and asked to imagine how my life should feel- Nikko I would say, each and every moment.

PS. My bad photography skills do no justice. Please check the video out. Or best, go visit Nikko :)

Chasing autumn in Japan is the second part of my new travel series on Japan- documenting the food, people, nature, beauty and culture in the land of the rising sun.  The first part is called Vegetarian in Japan-for your sweet tooth.

Disclaimer: I often hear how people are inspired by various travel blogs and wish to pack their bags and go travel. If any of my blogs does the same to you, I request you to read up on what I think about travel and how to afford it responsibly. Here is the link- travel responsibly.

Vegetarian in Japan- For your sweet tooth

 On board All Nippon Airway’s Tokyo bound flight, the first ‘Hindu’ meal I was served, had…. You guessed it right- meat. If nothing else, this was the harbinger of what to expect in the next ten days spent in this beautiful country called-Japan.

A large population in Japan does not speak English and the concept of being ‘vegan’ or ‘vegetarian’ is foreign to them. The limited understanding of English can make it extremely difficult to ask for and food find which does not contain fish or meat. Even in packed foods in Japan, all the description is written in Japanese, leaving you at the shop owner’s mercy to find out if it is vegetarian or not.

But, I ain’t complaining.

Here is what proved to be my holy grail to find vegetarian food in a land where fish and meat are part and parcel of the staple food.

The staff at my Tokyo hostel was kind enough to write me a note which reads’ I am a vegetarian. I do not eat fish or meat.’ Now, that we are well equipped with a note and ready with our comfy shoes to walk miles in search of food, let the adventure begin.

Vegetarian in Japan is a three part food series- the first one listing all things sweet.

For your sweet tooth

These sweet brown colored delicacies- soft bun on the outside and filled with delicious beans jam in the inside.

Find them sold at the stalls put up in the temple lanes of Asakusa in Tokyo.

Pro tip: Locals in Japan do not eat while walking on the street, so if you buy something at a shop or stall- ask if there is a place you can stand and eat. There would definitely be one.  

More brown colored delicacies- this time filled with pure sinful fresh white cream. Notice the cute little panda and other character designs made on these tiny delicacies. Found these at Lotteria, which has outlets across Tokyo.

Japanese –style croquette

This shop in Takeshita street in Tokyo means serious business. You stand in a queue, the staff works swiftly and efficiently like a machine- with sole dedication to fill these croquettes with fresh cream. Watch the video, which I slyly captured. The outlet likes to focus on work and has disdain towards distractions like photography. I do not remember the shop name, but you just cannot miss it once you enter the street. In addition to these croquettes, the street is filled with eating options- including ice-creams and various types of gummies.

Green Tea Macha flavoured softie and kitkats

In Japan, you can find almost everything edible with a green tea flavor- so do not miss to try green tea flavoured softies, macha flavoured kitkats, macha flavoured desserts and a long list of other stuff.

This one I had at an outlet in Kyoto- and it was pure bliss and huge enough for me to take a good 25 minutes to eat it with love and all my attention- other things in life can wait.

Fresh fruit smoothie

When at Kawaguchiko station in Fuji do not miss this food van named Farmer’s blend. A food van dedicated to sell local fruit smoothies. I tried the one called kiyo, made from a local pear fruit.

Vegetarian in Japan is the first part of my new travel series on Japan- documenting the food, people, nature, beauty and culture in the land of the rising sun. Vegetarian in Japan, will also have two more parts soon- meals and munchies.

Disclaimer: I often hear how people are inspired by various travel blogs and wish to pack their bags and go travel. If any of my blogs does the same to you, I request you to read up on what I think about travel and how to afford it responsibly, here is the 
link https://amrithapillay.blogspot.in/2017/10/travel-responsibly.html

Travel Responsibly

How many times, have you thought of quitting your job and going to the hills- just because an instagram post said that. Yours faithfully has been guilty of such thoughts.  But travel, involves money, involves having enough leaves and important of all- it needs you to have a job to return to when the travel fever has faded out.

I have worked for the last eight years, and started travelling just two years back. You guessed it right; I started two years back, because I used the first six years to save money.

Travel can be a way of life, only for those who have inherited a huge fortune or are incredibly talented to make a living out of blogs, photography and youtube videos. For those who belong to the incredibly talented category, the privilege of earning out of travel has also come after years of hardship and struggle.

So there is no easy way out, unless of course you plan to splurge your parent’s savings. Stamps on your passports aint cheap, but man, they are worth it. All good things never come easy. So, love your job, be realistic, save up, make travel goals, work towards them, start with small weekend trips and then take a the long jump for an international travel. Have a plan. Make sure you have savings when you pack your bags, make doubly sure you return to a bank balance and a job when you return with those bags.

 The universe favours those with a plan and determination. Travel responsibly.

Amritsar- Eat, Shop and Pray (May be not)

If it is your first time in Amritsar, and if you happen to be there around noon time, beware. Beware, every person around you will seem to want to send you the border, they may tell you it is already late to go the border, you need to leave now. They will repeat lets go to the border. But, don’t worry, you ain’t being sent to war to aid our soldiers who fight, when we crib standing at ATM lines. The humble tourist guide or the auto driver just wants to show you the Wagah border.

If you aint overhelmed with patriotism and choose to ditch the border, here is what more you can do in this colorful city.

First, here is how you move around. The city has a transport vehicle for every family size- small family- rickshaw puller, big family auto, bigger family electric auto, more big family more big auto. You get the drift. Here is a glimpse of them.

Once you have chosen your favorite mode of transport, let the eating begin.

Eat

I am not very fond of city or city tourism, but Amritsar, well, the way to anyone’s heart (not just a man’s) is indeed through the tummy. The non-foodie in me fell in love with this city for the food.  

My friend’s single motive to visit Amritsar may be was to eat chole Kulche. After a few hours of inquiring we understood what we would have liked to have as lunch or dinner, was indeed strictly breakfast material.  So on our second day we head to Gulwant ke kulche shop close to the Golden temple.  

This place is buzzing with customers during breakfast time, with most tables occupied at any given point of time. The staff has no time to entertain any small talks- there are kulchas and then there is aloo, mixed sabzi or paneer- you quickly decide, place your order and eat it up.

This humble looking kulcha can keep an average appetite person like me full for ours. In fact, we skipped lunch that particular day.  But if you still have scope for lunch, please head to Kesar da Dhabba, my mouth waters even as I write this. 

                                          Here is where the yummy food gets prepared.

Of the many things we tried there, their baigan ka bharta is my favourite. The city surely has a lot more to offer as street food-including pani puri, road side paratha, lassi, milk and other savories, Bhel and the list goes on.

Shop

Lets burn those calories now. If you take a rickshaw from golden temple to Kesar Dhabba, chances are you will cross small bylanes selling dupattas, suits and all types of textiles in colorful patterns. Take my advice and get down there itself, because once you miss these lanes they are difficult to find. Tip two is to carry empty bags when in Amritsar- colorful, good cotton dupattas, phulkari sets and all of this at highly reasonable pricing. A word of caution, most auto drivers will offer to drop you to the kapda market for Rs10, do not fall for it. They just take you to the shops, not the lanes where the real fabric magic is.

If you do not believe me, here is what yours faithfully bought from Amritsar all in a day’s time.

Pray

Wonder why I added (May be) to the pray part. Well, because in the golden city we missed a chance to pray. The temple was very crowded the evening we decided to go there (Not sure if it is always the case). 

The temple premise is beautiful, but the way leading to the main temple was crowded and we could not muster the courage to enter the common line (there was no separate Ladies line) when we had already experienced multiple instances of being brushed the wrong way by the men around. May be next time, the men in Amritsar makes us feel more welcome, may be next time we get to see the divine. Until then, Amritsar is still a nice place to be.

fireflies!

Fireflies.

This time for fireflies.

You probably ended up on this page because you are a friend and I forced you to read this or you are one of the rare species who fed firefly in the Google search engine and I got lucky . Nevertheless,  read on.

First things first.  Clear your head of all the Google images you have seen of fireflies. They do not look like that. It is just a photographer's awesome job mostly executed at the post shoot edit desk. But hey,  do not let this dishearten you. Fireflies are a darling and like most good things in life, they are memorable when one seeks them with no expectations. 

Now that I have set the stage right, go ahead and enjoy this Little poem on the awesome tiny things that fireflies are.

Fireflies. 

This time for fireflies.

Flies with fire in their belly.

Hey, I got some left in mine too.

This time for fireflies.

I tread the pitch dark lanes.

To see them flock that one fortunate tree, all for love.

This time for fireflies. 

To see them shine like Christmas lights, but hey its just May.

No they ain't Christmas lights, they are a grand musical light night. 

But where is the music you ask again.

It is in the heart. In your heart and in mine.

I dont hear it, you say.

the city lights drowned it I exclaim. 

This time for fireflies. 

For only love as natural as fireflies can play back your own song in rhythm.

This time for fireflies.

To see lights raining.

This time for fireflies.

To see stars descend on trees on a new moon night.

This time for fireflies.

To sit at the lake and see them shine shy and then bright and then shy again.

This time for fireflies. 

To fall asleep not counting stars, but wondering. 

Wondering where did they get their fire from.

Wondering what I lost my fire to.

From within. To within.

Go find your fire once again, this time for fireflies. 

You are right. That is what they are. Imagine a naturally power string of tiny lights on a tree on a  new moon night switching on and off in total rhythm. That is fireflies for you. I bet if you spent more than few seconds gazing at them, they would trick you  to believe it is that moment when the universe conspires to grant anything you wish for. There is a  Japanese word 'Ruyi' which loosely translates to 'as you wish for'. this was my 'ruyi' moment and yes I did go ahead and wished. 

You too may find your 'Ruyi' moment, give fireflies a chance.

This time for fireflies.  :)

Varkala Tales: Humans of Varkala

Varkala Tales is my new travel series based on my latest travel to Varkala in Kerala. This series will cover sunsets, teas, people, solo travelling and ofcourse places. Brace up for some poetry too. This is part three of Varkala Tales, Feedback welcome and highly appreciated.

I have said this earlier, I will say it again. One of the best things about travelling is the people you meet- some give you life goals, some lend a fresh perspective, some just make you smile and few more humble you down, the nice way. Here is my share of experiences from the humans I met in Varkala, may be also the humans who make Varkala what it is.

Meet Stephen.  Actually Stephen has a personality interesting enough that it will find you, even if you may not necessarily go looking for. In the last couple of days of my stay in Varkala, it almost became customary to halt by this small shop selling small artifacts carved out of marble and say hello to Stephen.  From London, Stephen is in Varkala to train as a yoga instructor. I first met Stephen at the marble artifacts shop, where he has been spending a couple of hours each day to learn how to shape marble pieces perfectly. Here he poses with his yoga instructor; the picture below is the shop is where he sharpens his artifacts skills.

At Varkala’s famous Coffee Temple I met Lovely, I approach her curious to know if she owns the place. Lovely does not own the coffee shop, but helps manage it and has been there for close to ten years. In a small chat we have, Lovely tells me before joining the tourism industry she worked as a software professional in one of the big cities. It is amazing what people do for the love of travel and tourism- from a big city to a beach destination with a creek- Lovely surely does not seem unhappy about the decision.

                                  I forgot to get a picture of Lovely, so here is  Coffee Temple for you instead.

I call him boat uncle, because my memory is of no aid as I try to recollect his name. I dare not name misname him. So yes, he is boat uncle. He was the boat man for my twenty minute ride to and fro Golden Island in Varkala. Though I do not remember his name, trust me I am a fan. What does one do if you are the only one in a boat and the only other person is the boatman-strike a conversation. I ask him about his family. “ Kids?” “One, adopted,” he says with a smile. I hope that is reason enough for you too to like him. If you still don’t, I don’t like you my reader.  Boat uncle talks very warmly about his school going son, where he adopted him from and about his wife who works as a nurse. “ We both earn enough to have a decent living,” says. Boat uncle understands and also speaks hindi. “ How come?” I ask. I have worked as a plumber in Dubai, fell three floors down in an accident, gave up the job and returned to Kerala,” he says. When in Kerala, be sure to meet a Middle-east return.

It is a tie between whom I like the most- the boatman uncle or this European couple. Both gave me life goals of different kind. Meet Ayesgul and her partner- Lorris. Ayesgul is Turkish and Lorris is Italian. Lorris met Aysegul in Turkey and they both later decided to go on a trip to Sri Lanka. Post the trip, Ayesgul returned to her office job and Lorris went ahead to explore India. At his last destination in India- Varkala, Lorris decided to start a new life in this beautiful beach destination.  “ Lorris told me I have found our future,” says Ayesgul as she narrates her story with a big smile. “ We did the maths and saw how much we have and decided we had enough to start a business in Varkala,” she says. I ask them how long they have known each other, “We celebrated our fourth anniversary on 7^th October, it is my lucky day,” says Ayesgul. You need to see that sweet smile to know how lucky. God bless the couple. You can know them personally by staying at keeratheram when you plan to travel to Varkala.

Give solo travel a try!

“What will you do alone,” was a frequent question when I first told anyone I am planning to travel solo. Once I returned, the question merely changed its tense to “What did you do alone.”

Good question. Honestly, I did not know what I will do alone and I still don’t know what one should do on a solo trip. To each his (read her) own may be. But here is why I wanted to give solo a try and I ain’t complaining.

               For solo travel either be good with selfies or you might click random pics like the above

First. I am on a life mission to be ferociously independent in this ever changing world. How sad it would be to not be able to travel to some nice place, for the simple reason of not having the right company. Rule one of solo travelling- your company is the best company.

Second. “Your parents aint accompanying you?” asked the boatman who rowed to Golden Island in Varkala. I wonder if he would have cared to ask a guy travelling alone the same question. So go travel to prove to the world and more to yourself that a girl/woman/young lady/old lady/lady in her thirties/ lady who does not care/ single lady/married lady/ divorced lady…I guess you got the point now, can and is normal to travel alone.

Third. Hey, its fun. Okay, it aint the kind of fun you would have with a group of crazy friends doing crazy stuff, but it is still fun. For starters, you are more inclined to make new friends and more aware of people and experiences around you. On this trip, I had a lovely dinner with a young medical professional who was also travelling solo. It is always nice to meet people of a different age, different work profile, different city and different thoughts.

Fourth. Just like you don’t learn to swim until pushed into the pool, same is the law with the intuition to know whom to trust and whom not to.  Solo travelling will help you be more confident about your sixth sense of danger and its absence.  

Fifth. I like strolling the beach for hours and then returning to my room and falling asleep instantly happy-tired of all the beach-walking. I am not sure how many of my friends really like that idea. Solo travelling is a good trip to do what exactly makes you feel nice-no one to judge and no one to compromise for. Choose a destination you like and you can also drop it last minute just because the sun isn’t shinning bright enough today. No one to answer and no one care.

If these are reasons enough for you to go solo or if you have found a sixth reason, go ahead. Here are some tips which might come handy- carry books, lets admit it – self company may get boring sometimes. Load your smart phone with a long playlist for the same reason.  If you have a pet project in mind which you wish to execute in solitude, stay back in one place for a longer period. In the instance of lack of a pet project, avoid longer stays at one location, keep moving, cover more locations in one trip, it will keep you entertained with new people, new sights and new experiences each day. Finally, be prepared for an emotional turmoil, whether you intend or not, soul-searching will come searching for you on a solo trip and then there is no escape. But there is always a brighter side- clarity at the end of the tunnel.

“Give solo a try” – is part of my new travel series from my first solo trip to Varkala in Kerala. Reach out with your solo travel experiences, queries and for any safety tips.